After visiting Vienna, Mary Rose returned to the US and I went to Lisbon, Portugal for a day before returning to France. I arrived in Lisbon late in the afternoon of May 10th and left on the afternoon of May 12th, so I was there for about a day and a half. I liked Lisbon a lot and I thought it was a really neat place.
Upon getting there, I walked from the airport to my Airbnb. I didn't think it would be a far walk, and it wasn't really. Just about 40 minutes. But one thing is for sure: it was hot.
Lisbon Airport
Once I made it to my Airbnb, I explored the nearby neighborhood. I was hungry so I also had to get something to eat.
I stopped at a cafe and I tried a pork and cheese sandwich and a pastry called Pastel de Nata. This treat is a Portuguese tart with a rich egg custard nestled in a crisp pastry. They are sold at about every cafe in Lisbon, and they are a must to try when visiting Portugal.
After that, I continued walking and I visited the Vasco da Gama tower and bridge. The tower and bridge are named after one of Portugal's greatest explorers, Vasco da Gama, and they were opened in 1998, on the 500th anniversary of his voyage to India. Gama was the first European to reach India by sea from the Atlantic Ocean. The shape of the tower evokes a nautical sail, and stands at 145 m/575ft. high. It is Lisbon's tallest building.
Along the tower and bridge is a nice boardwalk in which you can walk, run on, or bike on along the Sea of Straw, the large basin in the estuary of the River Tagus near the river's mouth.
The next day, I went to the Alfama District, the oldest and most colorful district of Lisbon. It is a neighborhood known for its narrow, cobblestone streets, many hills that give you scenic viewpoints of the classic red roofs, neighborhoods, cathedrals, and the Tagus River.
Before heading into town, I had a coconut-filled croissant. It was so rich that I felt like I was eating a dessert!
Many of the buildings in Portugal are known for their tiles, called the azulejo. After Portugal's King Manuel I visited Seville, he brought back the idea of these tiles, and Portugal adopted the artwork into its culture. The tiles were used to cover up the large areas of blank wall inside buildings during the Gothic period. These antique azulejos had a simple color palate, just blues and whites, which were colors that were dominated by the Age of Discoveries (15th-18th centuries). During the last couple of centuries, the use of these tiles have become even more popular. Today, it is common to see them decorating churches, monasteries, restaurants, bars, subway stations, and regular homes. They are also used extensively in interior decoration.
Apartments and buildings with their tiles
One activity that I had to do when I was in Lisbon was ride the Tram 28. The Tram 28 is one of the most popular trams in the city, used by tourists and locals, thanks to the sites and landmarks that you see along the way. Because Lisbon's hills are steep and narrow, modern trams can't be used on most routes. The best place to get on the tram is at Martim Moniz. After getting off here, you can ride it the whole way and see the charming city of Lisbon while sitting on the wooden bench and hearing the old-time ringing of the tram car.
Lisbon also has many beautiful churches that are worth seeing.
This church and monastery you see above is called the Church of São Vicente de Fora, which was built in 1582. It stands on the site of one of the churches that King Afonso Henriques vowed to build where Portuguese soldiers and northern European crusaders who fought the Moors lay buried. It is located on the outside of the city walls (hence the name "De Fora" meaning "on the outside"). It was inaugurated in 1629 but was severely damaged in the 1755 earthquake, when the main dome and roof collapsed. It was then restored and in 1855 the old monastic refectory became the pantheon of the Bragança dynasty.
Another church that I visited in Lisbon was the Basílica da Estrela. It is one of the largest churches in Lisbon and has a giant rococo dome on top of it with two bell towers that stand on each side. Queen Maria I had this church built in 1779 and you'll find her tomb inside. Behind her tomb is the entrance to a room that has a special baroque nativity scene with over 500 figurines. The Estrela Basilica was also the first church in the world dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus.
Right across from the Estrela Basilica is the Estrela Garden.
It is a lovely neighborhood park with many trails, plants, trees, and a duck pond in it. I took a break for lunch at the outdoor cafe where I got the avocado toast with tomatoes and eggs on it, with a side of croquetas. Beyond the park is an English Cemetery, where Henry Fielding, author of Tom Jones, is buried.
After my lunch break, I made my way to the Belém Tower, and on the way there, I saw the Jerónimos Monastery.
This monastery is the former monastery of the Order of Saint Jerome near the Tagus river in the parish of Belém. Its construction began on January 6, 1501, and was completed 100 years later. Manuel I selected the religious order of Hieronymite monks to occupy the monastery, who prayed for the King's eternal soul and the navigators and sailors who left from the port of Restelo to discover lands around the world. The monastery's architectural style is known as Manueline: it is a richly ornate style with complex structural themes incorporating maritime elements and objects discovered during naval expeditions, carved in limestone.
This is one of the most ornate side entrances of the monastery. Henry the Navigator stands on a pedestal between the two doors with many carved niches, gables, and pinnacles that surround him. The tympanum is the semi-circular wall surface that rests above the double door and displays two scenes from the life of Saint Jerome: on the left, the removal of the thorn from the lion's paw, and on the right, the saint's experience in the desert.
As you walk past the monastery, you will eventually run into the Belém Tower. The entrance fee is not too expensive and you can walk up the steps to see the surrounding view from the top of the tower. This tower is officially called the Tower of Saint Vincent and is a 16th century fortification. It served as a point of embarkation and disembarkation for Portuguese explorers and as a ceremonial gateway to Lisbon.
In terms of architecture, the tower is a perfect example of the Portuguese Late Gothic Manueline style. This is especially apparent in its elaborate rib vaulting, crosses of the Order of the Christ, armillary spheres, and twisted rope, common to the nautically inspired Manueline style.
Looking from the tower across the Tagus River, you will see the Sanctuary of Christ the King, a Catholic monument and shrine dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus Christ overlooking the city of Lisbon. It was inspired by the Christ the Redeemer statue of Rio de Janeiro in Brazil, after the Cardinal Patriarch of Lisbon visited that monument. And in fact, this cross in Lisbon and the cross in Rio de Janeiro face each other across the Atlantic Ocean.
After visiting the monastery and the tower, I made my way to what is supposed to be a great scenic viewpoint of Portugal: Miradouro da Senhora do Monte. And on my way there, I ran into a pretty square in the center of Lisbon.
In this square, I found the Arco da Rua Augusta. It is a stone, triumphal arch-like, historical building built to commemorate the city's reconstruction after the 1755 earthquake. It has six columns and is adorned with statues of various historical figures: Marquis of Pombal on the left, then Vasco da Gama and Viriato and, on the right, Nuno Álvares Pereira.
After admiring the arch and the surrounding buildings, I continued to find that scenic viewing spot. And even before the top of the mountain, the views were pretty!
After many more hills, I finally made it: Miradouro da Senhora do Monte, one of Lisbon's major landmarks. It is a very calming place up there, in which you can admire everything: St. George's Castle, the Vasco da Gama Bridge, the red rooftops and the pastel-colored buildings of the Baixa and Bairro Alto districts of the city, and the Tagus River.
I sat at the top of that mountain for a while, and then descended down in search of food for dinner. And what I found did not disappoint me.
Something to note about food, and most other things in Lisbon, is that stuff is generally not that expensive. I got basically everything you see above -- my appetizer, main dish, and dessert -- for about 10 euros.
In terms of my meal, I got a fish dip for my appetizer, which was made out of mackerel fish. I then got a bifana for my main dish. Bifanas are traditional Portuguese sandwiches that are made with thin slices of pork which are marinated and simmered in a sauce of white wine, garlic, and paprika. The pork is then usually served on soft rolls. And for dessert, I got caramel cheesecake. It was just normal cheesecake, with caramel sauce on top, but it was still delightful and a great finish to the tasty dinner.
The next day, I had my flight back to Bordeaux, but before that, I wanted a good breakfast that would last me throughout my travels that day. So I stopped at a cafe near my Airbnb and ate a ham and cheese omelette with potatoes and salad.
After that I took the train to the airport, and then I took my plane to Bordeaux.
The seats on the train to the airport in Lisbon are made out of cork. Throughout Lisbon, you will also find many stores filled with products only made out of cork. This is because 70% of the world's pork comes from Portugal and the Portuguese have built the process to make the best cork products in the world.
Cork aside, I finally made it back to Bordeaux the evening of May 12th after a plane, a bus, and a train. I had a really great time in Lisbon, despite only being there for a day. It is a town full of character and the food is delicious. If you come with more people than just yourself, I recommend that you try to do a tuk tuk tour for a unique way to explore the town. These small vehicles offer city tours for couples or families with a local tour guide who will take you around the city's historical neighborhoods through the narrow streets.
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